Over the last 30 years Sauvignon Blanc has gone from relative obscurity to become one of the most popular white wines in the world. I‘m sure you are one of the many people who love it and have a certain favorite label. But have you ventured out to try other styles? There are many to explore.
The Wine: Chosen Rows, Brancott Estate, New Zealand with 9 other Sauvignon Blancs from New Zealand, California & France. $-$$-$$$-$$$$
The Food: A Modern American Feast by Chef Tae Strain
The Place: Manon, 407 West 14th, located in NYC’s meatpacking district
Ora King Salmon with Beluga Lentils, Braised Leaks, Lemon Yogurt
It began in the early 80’s, in New Zealand, the pioneer in the region and very influential in bringing Sauvignon Blanc to the world stage was Brancott Estate. Over 30 years later the Estate’s wine maker Peter Materman is out to prove another point. New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc is not only widely popular, but also can challenge the best Sauvignon Blancs of the world in quality. Could this be?
Of course the earliest Sauvignon Blancs are from France, they have been made there for centuries. It is a popular grape in Bourdeaux and the Loire Valley, where it is often blended with other grapes like Semillon. That and the unique terrior of these places makes French Sauvignon Blancs unique. We tasted three wines by producers considered among the best in the world, bottles that sell for as much as $150. We were quite impressed and wondered whether the Brancott wine would measure up.
California is another place where amazing Sauvignon Blanc wines are made. We tasted two, one by famous winemaker Merry Edwards, Sonoma, that reflected her amazing talent in Pinot Noir so well. The other called Illumination by Quintessa winery in Napa that seeks to emulate a Bordeaux style, it was another magnificent wine.
The next two wines were from New Zealand, one from the very popular Cloudy Bay and another from lesser know Dog Point. Neither of these really measured up to the quality of the French and the Californians. But on to the moment of truth.
Winemaker Peter Materman presented his new wine called Chosen Rows, it is the consummation of a new project called the ‘Icon Project’, intended to create a Sancerre style wine with a New Zealand signature.
The wine was remarkable with more body, deeper richer fullness, than the typical New Zealand wine. It has complex and abundant flavors that were fantastic. It was clearly an equal to the other very fine wines we tasted. Brancott says they are taking New Zealand Sauvignon Blancs to a new level and after this tasting we are quite convinced this is true.
Unfortunately it seems that we will have to wait for this limited edition wine, only 3,500 bottles have been produced and have not yet come to the US. Of course there are other Brancott wines available and we tasted them too as dinner was served.
Charred Beef Carpaccio with Rocket, Garlic Aioli, Parmigano, and Red Onion Jam, and Pan Roasted Chicken qith Carrot Puree, Baby Carrots, Chicken Jus, and Fried Egg
Brancott Letter Series B Sauvignon Blanc is one to look for. I enjoyed the complex array of flavors in this wine with grapefruit, currant, lime and then peach. Wine Spectator describes it well saying “The spicy quince and Asian pear flavors rest on a crisp, juicy body, with plenty of lime zest and grapefruit notes, especially on the finish. Drink now. Score: 89.”
Sauvignon Blanc pairs well with so many styles of food, from rich creamy French to spicy garlicy Asian and works very well with food like creative “seasonal American fare” of Manon Chef Tae Strain. "Locally sourced with unexpected inflections inspired by his extensive travels.” Manon
Chef Strain trained under Michelin starred Chef Brad Farmerie at PUBLIC in New York City and worked as Executive Chef at the critically acclaimed Demi in Baltimore.
180 Brancott Road, R.D.2
Blenheim, New Zealand
407 West 14th New York City
Things to do, places to see, with food and booze
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