Z T CaB + SD26 @ ICENY x ACC = WOW*

*Zonin Tenuta Ca'Bolani wines by Marco Rabino with sensational cuisine by SD26 Chef Matteo Bergamini, at the Italian Culinary Experience NY at the fabulous Astor Culinary Center. Does equal Wow!

Here is the story.

The art of food and wine pairing, or from many peoples’ point of view, choosing food for the wine, is rarely more perfect than this.

The wines, by Tenuta Ca'Bolani, four superb representations of the Fruilian region of Italy. Do you know it?

And the food, delightful, favoloso, from the kitchens of SD26, the offspring and recreation of the quintessential NY restaurant, SanDomenico. Did you know it?

In the northeast corner of Italy above Venice on the border of Slovinia, Aquileia, Fruili occupies a very special place in this world. Here clayish soil veined with gravel is alluvial and sits only a short distance from the coast, breezes blowing in from the nearby sea produce a wonderful climate, called an Alpha climatic zone. Like the climate found in the cherished wine making areas of Bordeaux and Maremma.

Here Gianni Zonin chose, in 1970, to create a vineyard, true to the place. It was his first property outside the Veneto. At the same time, Tony May, a man who would go on to be acclaimed as one of America’s greatest restaurateurs, was in his second year as General Manager of the famous Rainbow Room at the top of Rockefeller Center. I remember the place well. We celebrated on the eve of our wedding there in 1985.

Who would have thought their paths would cross so many years later. Yet, when you think about it, it was inevitable. Two men devoted to propagation of true Italian goodness, humble yet determined in their mission.

So 43 years later we get to enjoy the bounty of their work. Great wine and food in a very special place, Astor Culinary Center.

Our evening began with Zonin’s delightful Prosecco with a Prosciutto San Daniele with Melon di Cantalupo with Frico Crisps. The food was by executive chef, Matteo Bergamini, of SD26 the wonderful restaurant and lounge created everyday by Tony May and his charming daughter Marisa.

Next were the four wines of Tenuta Ca'Bolani. The first, Friuli Aquileia DOC Superiore Pinot Grigio, is fresh and youthful, with hints of acacia flowers and subtle spicy tones served with a luscious asparagi bianchi al vapore con uova in camacia e menta nepitella.

You know I am not a great fan of Pinot Grigio. While I honor and applaud that it brought a love of Italian white wine to the United States in the 80’s, it’s popularity has lead to a lot of substandard wines coming into the US market under its name. But, this Pinot Grigio is all that a great wine should be. Truly delicious.

The next wine, Friuli Aquileia DOC Superiore Sauvignon, was fresh and intense, with a subdued red grapefruit flavor, it offered tastes of green peppers, elderflowers and sage. This wine called for a more expressive dish to stand up to the vividness of this wine. Matteo Bergamini did not disappoint with a gentle yet prevalent Rissoto Carnaroli “Aquerello.

Italian Sauvignon Blanc is unique, richer and more earthy than those from other parts of the world. It is my favorite.

The next course was paired with the youthful 2011 harvest of Cervignano del Friuli, in the Aquileia zone Refosco dal Peduncolo Rosso. Refosco is a grape that is unique to this region. It has rich fruity flavors, with hints of wild berries, flowers and spice. A dense wine that was a rich background for a pasta dish with wild boar ragu with toasted pine nuts and pickled raisins.

Let me take a moment to mention one of the sponsors of this event, Delverde. Their pasta is fabulous, created with beautiful ingredients from the heart of Italy at “the foot of the Majella mountain massif, immersed in the Majella National Park in the Central Apennines of Abruzzo. Set against this breathtaking scenery, amidst little nestled villages and wheat fields where spring waters run pure.”

During the event we were treated to a pasta lesson, there is an art to this. In fact Delverde has launched a Pasta Sommelier tour.

Our final course and final Friulian wine was roasted quail with black figs summer chicory and watercress pesto, served with a 2007 Refosco dal Peduncolo Rosso Alturio Friuli Aquileia DOC.

This extraordinary wine is “fleshy yet delicate as a flower, it possesses a unique sensuality. It offers velvety sensations of black berry fruits along with sweeter notes of cherries and plums, cured tobacco and antique wood.”

We ended our meal with….

Apple Tarte with Grappa Nonino with Brachetto Sparkling Wine from Castell del Poggio another Zonin estate.

After dinner we stopped by for a tour of SD26 and enjoy a drink with Marisa, on the quite stretch of 26th street, facing Madison Square Park is a discreet entry to an exciting world of Italian drinking and dining pleasure.