Imagine that your next glass of wine spent time in this ethereal aging cellar waiting for the perfect moment to be bottled and travel to your home.
It was easy to envision as we sipped a pour of Rocca di Frassinello Le Sughere Maremma, an exquisite creation of Sangiovese, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon. It was also easy to dream of the tranquil Maremma countryside and the sweet sea sun and air from the coast that sustain it.
The Maremma is a large part of Tuscany bordered by the Ligurian and Tyrrhenian Seas. It was home of the mystical Etruscan many centuries ago because of its natural abundance that they believed were truly a gift of the gods. But in the years that followed it was overcome by the Romans, became the battle ground of the Sienese, Pisan and Florentine armies, and even Napoleon’s troops. Maremma declined and became one of most dangerous places in Italy were men rarely lived beyond 20 years.
But in the 20th century Maremma’s fortunes began to change, its rich resources and beautiful access to the sea were rediscovered and reclaimed.
It’s beaches restored as national parks and holiday destinations. Now a much desired destination of the rich and famous.
As you would imagine it was not long before winemakers of the region and other parts of Italy began to discover the rich soil and favorable climate that graces this place.
We have several favorites from this region like Elisabetta Geppetti, Fattoria Le Pupille and the Zonin Estate Rocca di Montemassi as well as the beautiful wines of Morellino di Scansano.
But today we are telling about a wine of the vineyard Rocca di Frassinello Le Sughere, a project of the great central Tuscany winemaker Poderi Castellare di Castellina.
The wine, Le Sughere (the cork tree) di Frassinello, is the vineyards second label in order of quality. Yet it is a truly a wine of great character. Its blend Sangiovese, Cabernet and Merlot are meant to be a perfect Italian-French wine. Which is a style of wine they like to make here.
I find the wines of Maremma more open and delicate than most Italian red wines and thought it would be a perfect pairing with an Asian influenced dinner of clams in black bean sauce and miso glazed eggplant. I was right.
At a tasting in the Astor Wines Center in NY, a Rocca di Montemassi’s Maremma Toscana IGT was paired with an amazing Branzino Alla “Isolana” from Le Cirque, a dish I would normally pair with a white wine. It was perfect. Maremma red wines are great with sea dishes.
The Rocca di Frassinello Le Sughere Winery
The winery was designed by famous architect Renzo Piano Italian Pritzker Prize-winning architect. See more at Tuscan Winery by Renzo Piano, Dwell Magazine
Massimo Casagrande, the chief wine maker at Rocca di Frassinello serves guests.
Photos: Amanda Dameron
Wine Advocate 90 Points
The 2010 Le Sughere di Frassinello bursts from the glass with an exciting melange of sweet red cherries, herbs, licorice and tobacco. It shows lovely mid-palate depth in a medium-bodied, sleek style supported by firm yet well-integrated tannins. The 2010 fleshes out nicely on the substantial finish. Le Sughere is 50% Sangioveto, 25% Cabernet Sauvignon and 25% Merlot. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2017.
Wine Spectator 90 Points
Dark and brooding, this red offers black cherry, plum, raspberry, meat and graphite aromas and flavors. Muscular and firm, with a dark fruit finish. Sangiovese, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon. Best from 2014 through 2020. 2,250 cases imported. –BS
The 2010 just arrived in many stores in the area but it’s production is relatively small so grab some now.
Things to do, places to see, with food and booze
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