On a spur of the moment impulse, Diana suggested dinner at Epernay Friday night. We dine at Epernay at least twice a year, tasting the fall and spring menu changes. This dinner was the best we have ever had at Epernay and we will be returning again soon, at least for the special Australian Wagyu (Kobe) Beef dinner they are serving on February the 19th.
Epernay has become a staple of the Montclair restaurant scene where the owners, charming host Courtney Papera and talented Chef Mark Papera serve up delicious classic French bistro cuisine with attentive service in a bright comfortable setting.
Epernay is called a “Brasserie” and you may wonder what is the difference between a Bistro and a Brasserie? As described by Patricia Wells the author of many books on French cooking, “A brasserie is a large establishment, originally a brewery from Alsace, so in Paris it is a large place selling beer and sauerkraut, and open all hours. A bistro is traditionally a small family place, small menu, just a few tables with limited menu.”
Epernay is larger than a typical bistro, thus the Brasserie designation I imagine, but serves all the French classics you would find in a bistro, Frisee Salad, Mussels, Steak Frite, Cassoulet, Choucotorie. Their Roasted Chicken, served on Wednesday, is quintessential comfort food. There are also many other more sophisticated offerings on the menu. But, I think all the dishes have their roots more in simple bistro faire than French Haute Cuisine.
For those who have never tried Epernay you can see their full menu and read more about the restaurant at http://www.epernaynj.com
With their family growing, now with two children, Mark and Courtney flirted with selling the restaurant and opening a place in a more rural area. Having decided against that, they have settled in and are very focused on making Epernay the great French restaurant that it is.
Mark’s talents as a chef continue to advance. To start we tried the soup Lentil Du Puy, a n
ew item on the menu for us. Lentils Du Puy are named after the French city Le Puy en Velay a beautiful place with ancient sacred sites in Auvergne where they are grown. These lentils are well known for their exceptional flavor and texture. Choosing these exceptional beans to create the best lentil soup I have ever tasted is in Mark’s style of always using the best ingredients available.
We also had the Roasted Beet, Mache and Leek Salad with Walnuts. A appetizer we have enjoyed many times before, but on this day it had a little fancier preparation, the dressing a little more pronounced.
Of course a trip to Epernay would not be complete with out the Frites with Aiola. Alone served in a paper cone or with Steak Frites they are delicious and a good way to fill up the kids if you are feeling generous enough to bring them. They are cooked just right and sprinkled with salt and dry sautéed parsley.
The wine we poured was a Sauvigon Blanc from New Zealand that I bought at Amanti Vino. It is produced by Claire and Mike Allan of Huia Vineyards. They both spent time learning their trade in Champagne, France near the city of Epernay. This delicious wine is more well rounded than most New Zealand Sauvignon Blancs, which tend to be very sharp. I agree with the winemakers description “On the nose this aromatic wine shows uplifting bright gooseberry and ripe citrus. It is finely structured with multi layers of fresh squeezed passion fruit, pineapple, lime and some flower notes. The flavours on the palate are intense and long.”
Epernay is in Champagne not Burgundy, as Trevor Corso kindly pointed out, famous for sparkling wines which could be appropriatee however, I think a Boudreaux Cabernet or Sauvignon Blanc would go better with the menu at Epernay. The table next to us had two German Rieslings they were enjoying and another table had two California wines. As I have said before when it comes to wine, drink what you like.
I'd suggest stopping by Amanti Vino on Church Street, tell them what your planning to eat, your price range, and they will suggest a wine I'm sure you will enjoy.
For entrees I had the new Creamy Chicken and Wild Mushroom Pot Pie. I always loved pot pie as a kid, but have not had one in years. I had to try it. What was the best pot pie you have ever had? Your Mom’s? Horn and Hardarts in New York or Philly? This one is better, with a perfect light but crispy crust over delicious chicken in gravy with carrots, potatoes and exotic mushrooms.
We also enjoyed the Smoked Double Pork Chop, Braised Cabbage, Bacon & Onion, Dried Cherries Jus. We have had this before and was excellent again.
Too full for dessert, we passed on favorites of the Berries with Sabayon or the Apple Tarte Tatin
If you go to Epernay, please go hungry, the portions are hearty and rich, very filling. For appetizers you can easily share a Steak Tartare or Country Pâté and one or two salads among four people.
Eat slowly, Mark serves many of his dishes, especially those with broth or gravy piping hot.
Before going, Call Courtney, 973-783-0447 for a reservation as they often fill all tables even during the week.
Things to do, places to see, with food and booze
You are so right, was a little too fast on my research. Thanks for pointing this out.
Posted by: Peter Conway | 02/12/2006 at 16:32
always loved epernay -the restaurant. Maybe I'm wrong but isn't epernay in Champagne not Burgundy which is further south?
Posted by: trevor corso | 02/12/2006 at 16:19